由於住宿佔著完美定點旅遊的重要比例,我們期待今年紅葉季節再次造訪日光時,能夠入住中禪寺湖畔的溫泉旅館,深刻感受湖光山色的晨昏之美.
毫無疑問的,倚山傍水,提供究極服務品質的『界 日光』絕對是我們這次旅宿中禪寺湖的不二選擇.
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『神事流謫馬』結束後,從神橋搭乘東武巴士前往今晚下榻的旅館,車行沒多久,就發生巴士故障的意外插曲,這時不得不佩服日本人的危機處理.司機先生立刻回報巴士公司,並以輕鬆的語調向乘客說明情況,紓緩車內的不安氣氛,不到二十分鐘,就駛來一輛巴士前來接應,並有專人指揮乘客下車轉乘.
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幸好巴士沒在接下來如髮夾似的連續彎道『いろは坂』故障,否則就不堪設想了!
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『いろは坂』全長約27公里,也是日光的紅葉名所. 巴士平穩的行駛在『いろは坂』,一轉彎就是另一頁風景(楓景),直讓乘客驚嘆連連.
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『いろは坂』的盡頭就是『明智平』,西側為中禪寺湖、華嚴之瀑、男體山,東側為屏風岩及連綿的山巒,搭乘明智平纜車可享受日光第一絕景. 但旅行總是有得有捨, 這次由於時間有限,就不在此停留,僅透過車窗匆匆一瞥明智平的雲海.
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出了隧道就是中禪寺湖了.
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一抵達中禪寺湖巴士站,就看到『界 日光』的接駁車,真是太貼心了!
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這間藍綠色屋瓦宛如宮殿般的豪華旅館於1993年開業,原名『日光離宮』,當時的老闆希望能仿造德川家康在日光的行宮,網羅全日本最好的工匠,使用最高級的檜木,斥資100億日元,以傳統接榫工法,不用ㄧ根釘子,耗時兩年打造作工精細的頂級旅館,曾榮獲多位建築師推崇爲日本優美建築前三名,1997年的電影『失樂園』也曾到此取景.無奈5年之後卻因經營不善而停業,最後僅以5億日元讓售,承接的企業又另外花費5億日元改裝整修,以『日光の離宮楓雅』之名重新開業,直到2014年5月才轉由創業101年的星野集團接手經營,成爲「界」系列的經典日式旅館『界 日光』.
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走進大門先換上室內拖鞋,旅館內擺放日光的特色-木屐,住客可以換上木屐,體驗江戶風情的散策.
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通過鹿沼木工精雕細琢的閱覽區.
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等待入住登記的同時,服務人員送上暖心暖胃的熱毛巾和熱巧克力.
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窗外的中禪湖和男體山已被厚重的雲層籠罩.
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坐擁絕佳地理位置的『界 日光』,擅以大片觀景窗作為畫框,一幅幅風景畫作處處可見.
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佔地3,000坪,純和式宮殿建築的『界 日光』僅有33間客房,我們這次預訂的是一泊二食的中禪寺湖景和室客房.從房間可以眺望男體山及中禪寺湖.
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100%亞麻製的浴衣.
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浴室使用檜木風呂;和漢生藥成分的沐浴備品一應俱全;並贈送『界 日光』專用的紫花風呂敷.
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雕工細緻的旅館迎賓大門.
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夜幕漸漸低垂.
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咖啡吧區隨時滿足嗜咖啡因者的需求.
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不走商業路線的附設賣店,強調 『界』是『和心地』的温泉旅館,也就是將在地的元素融入建築部屋、食材料理及娯樂設施,因此販賣的均為當地的文創及工藝製品.
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穿過庭園迴廊及能樂堂舞台,進入兼具溫暖氛圍及開放感的包廂,準備享用今晚的季節會席料理.
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飯前先來杯梅酒.
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首先送上的前菜是以日光彫食器裝盛柑橘風味的湯波果凍.
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接著是以楓葉圖案陶盤裝盛的『八寸』,8樣日式精緻小菜.
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秋天最適合享用風雅的松茸土瓶蒸,佐以海老、甘鯛及白果.
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二層竹籃裝盛的日光流生魚片料理.
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鮮蝦及舞茸天婦羅.
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黑底鑲金蒸碗內的炙燒鰻魚及湯葉卷.
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『石室燒』是將紙包牛肉放入高溫的大谷石內,以水蒸氣悶煮,水遇高温的滋滋作響和打開紙包時撲鼻的香味將用餐氣氛帶到最高點.
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這樣的烹調方式完全不流失肉汁與蔬菜的香甜.
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最後送上醃菜數樣及味噌湯.
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飯後甜點-湯葉慕斯及淡雪Cheese.
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旅館每晚都會邀請住客穿上自己挑選的木屐參加「日光下駄談義」.
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年輕女孩介紹日光木屐的由來及製作方式.
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隔日一早的中禪寺湖雨仍未歇.
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先到以檜木及岩石構造的內湯及露天風呂泡湯.
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朝食仍是一桌的豐盛,為新的一天注入滿滿的元氣.
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既然外頭雨勢尚無停歇的跡象,不如把握時間在旅館拍拍見頃的紅葉吧!
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等不了雨停,還是決定出門,沿著中禪寺湖畔走走!歡迎點閱:中禪寺湖.義大利大使館別莊
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準備離開『界 日光』了,等待接駁車時突然發現天漸漸藍了,短短10分鐘,陽光悄悄的在雲霧中露臉.旅行就是這樣,驚奇與驚喜總在不預期的轉角出現.
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(Pentax K5 + DA18-135 & DA21 & Fujifilm X-E1 + XF18-55)
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