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清晨從杜拜「康萊德酒店」(Conrad Hotel)的高樓層客房,俯瞰寧靜的杜拜市景及遠處的阿拉伯灣。
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今天將從杜拜前往150公里外的阿布達比,展開2天1夜的Abu Dhabi小旅行,搭乘計程車是快速又方便的交通方式。
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行駛在同一條謝赫扎耶德路(Sheikh Zayed Road),看得出來有何差異嗎?屬於杜拜國土的路段鋪設灰色的柏油路,每柱燈桿僅有兩盞路燈。在阿拉伯的世界裡,人外有人、天外有天是不變的定律。
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比較下圖阿布達比的柏油路是茶色,一支燈桿有六盞燈,還有一個明顯差別就是分隔島的路樹。可見阿布達比的財力更加雄厚,因為擁有UAE 90%以上的石油儲藏量,杜拜只有10%。
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經過一個半小時的車程,純白建築的大清真寺就在眼前了!
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神聖而宏偉的車道入口,由此進入大清真寺。
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進入穆斯林的聖地,必須遵守告示牌上的規範。
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為符合清真寺禮儀(Mosque Manners)的著裝要求,被指引至地下室進行換裝。
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進入大清真寺的遊客不能穿著露出腿部、腹部、胳膊或緊身的衣服;女性遊客的頭髮還必須以頭巾包裹住。
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大清真寺三面包圍著反光池(Reflective Pools),池內舖設深淺不同的藍色瓷磚,池面清晰投映大清真寺壯麗的列柱。
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方形城堡式格局的大清真寺,外牆建材採用斯拉夫白色大理石,更加襯托大清真寺的莊嚴肅穆。周圍的地面上有14個綠色玻璃圓頂,這是地下男女沐浴設施的屋頂,也是清真寺伊斯蘭花園設計的特色之一。
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大清真寺耗資5.5億美元建造,單是黃金就耗用了46噸。
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大清真寺共有4座伊斯蘭建築中最重要的宣禮塔,塔高107公尺,從下而上分別由方形、八角形及圓筒三種不同形狀所組成,頂端是貼覆金色玻璃馬賽克的加冕燈籠。
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大清真寺共有82個大小不一的圓頂,最大的圓頂位在主祈禱大廳的中心。圓頂的設計元素包括:純白大理石包覆的洋蔥球體、新月形飾以金色玻璃馬賽克的頭冠、引入自然光線的頂部窗戶。圓頂內部以傳統摩洛哥的鋼筋石膏所砌成,周圍環繞著塗成金色字體的可蘭經經文。
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中央的庭院(Sahan)通常是供禮拜者在重要的伊斯蘭祈禱或大型集會期間使用,例如齋月、開齋節和宰牲節。庭院面積約17,400平方公尺,最多可容納3萬名信徒。庭院地面的大理石作品是由英國藝術家所繪製,邊緣飾有生長在中東的花朵,如鬱金香、百合和鳶尾花。
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駐足欣賞大清真寺的外觀設計,感受伊斯蘭藝術的極致發揮。
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即使是二月天,戶外烈日下的35度高溫仍令人酷熱難耐,脫下鞋子進入門廳,在高功率空調和大理石地板的雙重降溫效果下,瞬時暑意全消。
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首先映入眼簾是潔白如雪的大理石牆壁和地磚,上面鑲嵌著向上攀生的花卉。
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立面以傳統的伊斯蘭幾何設計,融入線條簡單的花卉圖案。
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進入金碧輝煌的主祈禱大廳。
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主祈禱大廳的亮點之一,是這座由德國慕尼黑Faustig製造、鑲嵌施華洛世奇水晶的枝型吊燈。
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主祈禱大廳的另一大亮點,是地面這一片被譽為全世界最大的手工編織地毯。近5,700平方公尺的地毯,由伊朗藝術家設計,並動員1,200 名工匠手工製作,從設計到完成耗時近2年。
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以珍珠母鑲嵌蔓藤花紋的大理石柱。
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以4根為一組,內部共有96根來自中國東莞以手工打造的大理石柱,為三座圓頂提供結構支撐。
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從遊客與主祈禱大廳的大小比例,就可見大清真寺之壯觀宏偉。
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細看這座施華洛世奇水晶吊燈,毫不吝於展現產油國的豪氣。
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以雪松木雕刻而成的講壇(Menbar),鑲嵌珍珠母、玻璃馬賽克和白金。
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講壇後方的朝拜牆(Qibla Wall),以傳統字體書寫阿拉真主的99個名字,並以微妙光纖照明勾勒花卉圖案。
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牆上的時鐘顯示今天是伊斯蘭曆1436年4月28日(西元622年7月16日為伊斯蘭元年1月1日);同時顯示一天內各次祈禱的時間。
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主祈禱大廳除了中央重達12噸的水晶吊燈外,左右還各有一座相同設計的8噸重水晶吊燈。
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門廳入口處有四盞設計和尺寸相似的藍色花瓣水晶吊燈,同樣也是德國慕尼黑Faustig所製造。
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俯拾之間盡現伊斯蘭美學。
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門廳入口前面壯觀的鞋櫃,進門時若沒記好鞋子擺放位置,出門要找鞋可就累了~
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大清真寺的清潔工作可不馬虎!
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大清真寺周圍的迴廊共有1,096根大理石柱,柱上鑲嵌著紅瑪瑙、紫水晶和珍珠母等寶石,廊柱的設計靈感來自阿拉伯地區的棗椰樹。
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迴廊的日間光影令人驚艷!
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在長廊內透過拱門,拍攝大清真寺宏偉的宣禮塔,畫面呈現美麗的幾何圖案。
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純白無瑕的大理石圓頂和迴廊,在陽光下更顯得一塵不染,藍色晴空和池水更襯托令人肅穆的恬靜。
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夜晚的大清真寺,最為獨特的是反映月相的照明系統(Lunar illumination),由22座燈塔所組成,每天投射到圓頂外牆的亮度,隨著月圓月缺的變化而略有不同。我們在農曆29日到訪大清真寺,這樣的藍將愈來愈轉趨明亮。
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在高對比的燈光籠罩下,呈現與白天截然不同的氣氛。
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朝拜牆中央的金色壁龕(The Niche),是清真寺的重要建築元素,其設計靈感來自古蘭經(Surah Mohammed-15),如同天堂中一條充滿蜂蜜和牛奶的河流。壁龕呈半圓形有助於聲音傳導,使崇拜者更清楚聽到領禱人的聲音。
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夜間的迴廊充滿溫暖靜謐的氛圍。
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池面上的柱廊倒影,在黑夜中更顯得立體清晰。
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最後潛入地下室,參觀伊斯蘭教淨身儀式所在的沐浴室(Ritual Washing Room),浴室中央是玉石和大理石打造的噴泉,祈禱前信徒們先在此清潔自己,包括洗臉、洗胳膊,然後擦頭,最後用水洗腳。從伊斯蘭教先知穆罕默德說:「清潔是信仰的一半」,就可見淨身是伊斯蘭教重要的儀式!
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沐浴室採光的穹頂,就是先前在地面上所看到的綠色玻璃圓頂。
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大清真寺每年都會舉辦光影空間攝影大賽(Spaces of Light Photography Award),目的在展示這座偉大建築中的每個角落,處處都能感受到伊斯蘭建築美學;尤有甚者,是讓參訪遊客對於大清真寺所擔負弘揚宗教的使命和價值觀,有更深一層的認識及體悟。
![border=](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FALGFIS3da0/VPvMgGXeQsI/AAAAAAAAPEo/K8_GKZSv_gk/s0/IMGP6951.jpg)
(Pentax K-5 + DA12-24mm/f4 & DA18-270mm jpg)
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